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Re: Welp, I bought a cabinet

Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 11:35 am
by MonMotha
Pull the bracket, clean off all surfaces both on the bracket itself and the surrounding stage structure. Verify that the paint is in good condition. If it's chipped or bubbling, it will need to be sanded down and, ideally, re-painted. Ensure that all 3 screws and spacers are properly installed when re-installing the bracket. If any are missing, it will tend to tilt and bind up.

If that doesn't work for some reason, try a little silicone lubricant on the surface between the stage structure and the bracket.

Re: Welp, I bought a cabinet

Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2016 10:27 am
by Ho
The index card trick, if you're talking about what I think you're talking about, is if the sensor isn't registering reliably because it's sitting too low in the holder for the bracket to actuate it. I'm guessing you'd only make the issue you're having worse that way.

Are you sure the L-bracket is the problem? Does it move freely? Are all the metal spacers on the screws? Are all the screws (3) for it snug against those spacers? Are they the right spacers?

With the arrow panel out, is that sensor still stuck on? Can you lift the L-bracket and does the sensor clear?

Re: Welp, I bought a cabinet

Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2016 3:35 pm
by Ho
Are you still having troubles with panels sticking preventing you from playing doubles? I can't even remember what your exact issue was and I'm too lazy to read the history here right now. But, if you've got sticking panels, this might be caused by missing spacers on your L brackets. And if that's the case, you might be interested in this:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/4876291 ... 283851609/

Re: Welp, I bought a cabinet

Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2016 10:17 pm
by MonMotha
As I recall, the spacers (or something that's, for all practical matters, close enough) are a stock part at McMaster-Carr.

Re: Welp, I bought a cabinet

Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 12:15 pm
by Merk
Yuuuuup I am missing a whole lot of spacers so that is likely the issue in all honesty. Can I order McMaster-Carr shit off of Amazon or something?

Re: Welp, I bought a cabinet

Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 7:03 pm
by MonMotha
You can order it from McMaster-Carr...

www.mcmaster.com

I can give you the part number if I can find my bag of them that I ordered a while back. Either that or just measure the existing one (note that it's metric, so it will be "nice" in mm, not inches) and look it up on their site. Their parametrics are pretty good.

Re: Welp, I bought a cabinet

Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 8:55 am
by Ho
Or you could just buy the things that I linked. They're not original, but I've heard very good things about them. And they're basically what is used in Pump. They seem to do a pretty good job there. I haven't had any issue with them.

Re: Welp, I bought a cabinet

Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 10:37 am
by Merk
Ho wrote:Or you could just buy the things that I linked. They're not original, but I've heard very good things about them. And they're basically what is used in Pump. They seem to do a pretty good job there. I haven't had any issue with them.
This is probably the best approach. I posted on that listing, do you know how to order one? Do I just sent that Marco guy a PM?

Re: Welp, I bought a cabinet

Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 10:53 am
by Ho
I don't know any more than what's in that post.

Re: Welp, I bought a cabinet

Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2021 1:31 pm
by Merk
MonMotha wrote:
Wed Mar 12, 2014 6:23 am
Merk wrote:I am missing a brace plate that holds the two pads together (this part: http://www.coinopexpress.com/products/p ... _8713.html), how can I go about replacing it? It really is just a piece of metal, is there a place I can go to or order from that will take a piece of metal and drill holes in it for me?
Any metalworking shop should be able to make that given either a good drawing or, probably easier, one borrowed off another machine. I don't know of any near you specifically. Carmel Welding (in Carmel, appropriately) can probably do it.
Merk wrote:Also, the picture of my monitor very noticeably shakes at the slightest vibration. A strong bass note during the song will cause the picture to shake and get a little fuzzy. The game is playable but when selecting a song and going through the options menu you'll notice the picture shaking and it makes me worry. I'm guessing that maybe the neckboard isn't secured all the way, is there a way to safely secure it so that it doesn't move around?
Probably a bad solder joint somewhere. Hardest part is finding the problem. Fixing it takes all of 10 seconds with a soldering iron. Sometimes the bad joint is obvious. It's usually on a big, heavy part or a connector.

Resurrecting this thread! Ayyyy what up! I moved my machine to a floor that has a basement under it which causes the floor to vibrate significantly when playing. Because of this, my screen shaking is getting really bad to the point where I feel like I need to address it. Pardon my ignorance but where exactly should I be looking and what exactly do I do to the solder joint once the problematic one? Do I just melt solder on it?

I'm deathly afraid of fucking around anywhere near the monitor, how do I avoid not getting killed when poking around the monitor?



Also, dang, this thread brought me down memory lane and made me remember what a piece of shit machine I bought lolllll

Re: Welp, I bought a cabinet

Posted: Tue Aug 23, 2022 6:47 am
by MonMotha
The challenge is finding the faulty joint. Once you do that, it's usually just a matter of adding a little fresh solder to it. Sucking away the old solder first makes it even better.

Re: Welp, I bought a cabinet

Posted: Tue Aug 23, 2022 1:36 pm
by Merk
True... You know me I've always been sheepish when it comes to messing around with these monitors lol

I did actually fix it to the point where it's tolerable and I can do my usual Oni courses. Some charts still shake the fuck out of the ground and I still get a little shakiness - namely stuff like Paranoia Survivor and the end of Afronova. I removed some little 3x3x1 shock absorber that I tucked underneath my cabinet and that dramatically made things better lol

How hard is it to take the monitor out of the candy cab and swap it with my monitor that's in DDR? I know that one of these days my DDR monitor will die and I like having some peace of mind that I have two spare monitors out of my little head-to-head candy set up


Miss you guys, I'm glad to see some new posts on here I'm sick and tired of this web 3.0 shit

Re: Welp, I bought a cabinet

Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2022 9:18 pm
by MonMotha
The monitor on DDR is on a frame. That makes it fairly easy to handle. Remove the front glass, remove 4 big bolts, and the whole thing comes out with the help of a friend (do NOT attempt to do it by yourself).

Whether the monitor in your candy will be an easy swap is another matter. If it's on a frame, and most are, then you've got a shot at it. The bolt holes in the frame will probably line up, but the distance from the frame's mounting points to the front of the CRT glass may not, and it's fairly critical. DDR like most of the Bemani cabs snugged that thing right up to the front glass and then made the cabinet the absolute minimum depth needed to make the tube fit. Assuming the new monitor is even of a compatible depth to start with, you may need to shim the frame's mounts forward or backward to get it to sit in the right place.

Re: Welp, I bought a cabinet

Posted: Tue Aug 30, 2022 8:46 am
by Merk
I appreciate it, my friend. You've always been super helpful! Hope everything is going well :D